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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:54 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Caledonia, WI
I have a 23 hp van and I would like to install it in my '94 DS but, don't know whole lot about how to mount it in the cart? I already have the 6" jakes lift kit with 23" tires to start. Can anyone give me some guidance?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 1:00 am
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Location: Southwest Georgia
What do you plan on using for a drive and driven clutch? You should determine this before you mount engine.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:54 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Caledonia, WI
Hi Big Block Man,

Well, I am very interested in your 1 1/8” Straight Shaft, Team Aftermarket Roller clutch as, I’ll probably purchase that for the drive. But, I don’t know much detail about the Driven clutch that you sell online? What is the difference between the stock driven and the one you provide? Would the stock driven work with the roller drive clutch?? And if so, would I have to remount the engine down the road if I decided to go with the “Big Block” driven? Ideally, I’m trying to build this cart in the most economical way right now, as I don’t have a lot to work with. I know you have the whole kit with engine but, to try to sell this engine and then make up the difference to buy, is kind of out of the question too. Can you help me with this?

Thanks in advance!

Regards,

Big Red Cart


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:43 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 1:00 am
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Location: Southwest Georgia
First on the 1 1/8" roller clutch that is the largest of the clutches and it will require dropping the front of engine carrier down so clutch will clear leaf spring mount. Also most 23 Vanguards have a 1" output shaft not 1 1/8", So you may want to double check that.

The stock Club Car clutches are designed to use a 1" wide drive belt. Neither the clutches or the 1" drive belt will handle the 23 HP. The max you should go with the 1" is a 16HP V-Twin. Thats why we manufacture the tapered clutch adapter to run the stock clutches on the clone motors and such. It saves buying 2 new clutches that would cost twice what the motor did.

You can not run the new roller clutch with the original driven clutch as the belt width is not the same. I get alot of calls from people who shim the original driven clutch thinking that will work. Although it will then hold the wider belt it can not nearly spread apart far enough to give any performance. The Club Car driven clutch is also not nearly stong enough to put up with the punishment a V-twin can deliver.

The CPP10 clutch we sell was designed and built for us. It is not a clutch used on something else that will work in our Big Block engine kit. It was designed to work on a Club Car with one of our drive clutches. We then calibrated this clutch to give the best power, acceleration and top end. This clutch will easily handle 60HP. You wouldn't want to try that with a Club Car clutch.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:55 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:54 pm
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Location: Caledonia, WI
Thanks for the info on the clutches as it make sense when we're talking about increasing HP and torque. I'll check on the dia of the vanguard but, I'm pretty sure from my last look that it is 1.125" dia. Either way I'll let you know!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:54 pm
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Location: Caledonia, WI
The crankshaft dia is an 1.125" so, I'll need the CPP09 roller clutch and the CPP10 driven for my 23 hp vanguard. I believe this engine is the industrial make unlike the performance vanguard engines you sell. In a situation like this how low do I need to lower my front engine chassis mount on the club car and have you had to do this before Big Block Man?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:29 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 1:00 am
Posts: 2295
Location: Southwest Georgia
Yes our kit for that cart lowers front 2-3" for clearance with the clutch

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